Friday, April 29, 2016

House Hawkshroud Imperial Knights WIP

Working on some Imperial Knights.  I love these models.  These have been languishing in my case, half done, for a year or so.  Time to get them done.  I am loving the yellow.  So much so, that I am going to start an Imperial Fist army.  I finally magnetized them at the biceps for easy weapon swaps.  That's the part I was putting off for so long.  Hope you enjoy.

Monday, April 25, 2016

How to fill gaps without Green Stuff and Shadow Spectres WIP

Here is some progress on my Shadow Spectres.  Still needs some work all over.  Especially on the armor, bases and guns. Pretty much all over.
This is a little trick I came up with for glueing resin and plastic.  I originally needed something to hold some larger magnets in place, and have since used it for all types of uses.  From filling gaps, to making resin bonds stronger.  If you have every glued resin, you know that unless you have two surfaces that have a lot of surface area on the join, the bond won't be very strong.  Also, green stuff is great to form and shape into very detailed textures, but isn't super sticky and is not very supportive for the structure you are building.

This technique is super simple and inexpensive.  I wasn't pleased with my Wraith Seer stance, so I broke him apart and started over.  I glue the joint (here the hip joint) and then put some extra super glue in the space I need to fill.  Then I take a small wad of toilet paper and push it into the area with a knife or mould line remover.  Here you can see the size of the piece and the joint with the super glue/toilet paper already in the join.  
And some more toilet paper pushed into the gluey joint.  Sometimes you have to add extra glue to soak all the toilet paper, or cut extra TP from the joint.  Also, be careful if you have a large amount of area to fill, or if you don't pack the TP very tightly.  It has happened to me a few times, where the super glue saturates the TP, dries super quickly and gives off a lot of heat.  It puts out a lot of heat.  So much that I have had it smoke as the super glue dries.   This TP needs a bit more super glue.

 Here I did the same thing with the knee.  The great thing about this filler, is that it sets up like cement, is super strong, holds the two resin parts together and you can cut the excess with a sharp knife.  It paints fine, and is very resilient.  I have put green stuff over it before to get a super smooth surface.  I put a double ply, flat piece of TP between the resin base and the foot of the model.  It made a super strong bond.  I usually pin resin bases, but with the TP/super glue concoction, I don't need to pin it.

 Here's the final pose.  I wasn't completely satisfied, so he's in parts again.

Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Wraithlord Complete

Finally finished my wraithlord.  I have always loved this model, and love the poseability of it.  I magnetized the guns, so I can switch them out.  I am glad the sword is worthwhile again.

And with his other wraith buddies.  

Monday, April 18, 2016

Thunderwolves Complete

I finished the Thundewolves.  I love these guys.  Tried some edge highlighting on one, Thought it was too light.

I magnetized the marines at the shoulder for changing weapons, but am a bit stymied on how to deal with squad markings for alternate weapons.  I think I will just have to paint up each weapon I want for the squad with the same pack markings.  Otherwise, it will look weird if I have one pack with multiple different right shoulder pad squad markings.  Anyone else have any ideas?  magnetized shoulder pads?
Pack leader.  

 And with his Black Mane company decal.  I don't love decals for shoulder pads, but I was out of cool pads when I assembled these.

Friday, April 1, 2016

Thunderwolf mounts done and Snow effects

Finished the Thunderwolf mounts.  Here is a pic of the snow effect after using a matte sealer.  I like it for the most part, but am still learning.  This snow is just Elmer's white glue and baking soda.  I found I like it best with a few pointers:
1.push the glue around with a paint brush to thin it down a bit.
2.put a lot of soda on the glue
3. Don't blow the excess off, but tap the model sideways, to keep some 'skif' of snow in depressions on the base.  That way it looks more natural.

 The riders are not complete, but I REALLY liked the light layer of snow on the two bases closest to the camera.  The matte sealant kinda melted the really thin layer of soda.

Monday, March 14, 2016

Alpha legion progress

Joe's alpha legion is looking great.  Here is an update.

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Joe's Alpha Legion painting tutorial

Alpha legion Tutorial.
My good friend Joe has been working on his Alpha Legion.  He has been kind enough to send a very thorough recipe for his take on the alpha legion.

Here's how he does it:

1: Prime Black; as little as needed to get full coverage
2: Airbrush Base with a 50/50 mix of Vallejo Gunmetal/chainmail.
3: Airbrush top of model with Vallejo Silver.
4: Airbrush two coats of 75/25 of Tamiya Clear Blue/Clear Green.
5: Airbrush the flat panels Tamiya Clear Blue from the midpoint down; blend so the strongest blue is at the bottom
6: Repeat #5 with Clear Green, from the midpoint up.
7: Using an extremely thinned Vallejo Silver with a hint of Lothern Blue (like 1:15-20; enough to make the paint appear "off"), airbrush the top of the shoulders, pack, and helmet. Less is more here.
8: Using thinned Tamiya Clear Blue, brush over the highlighted armor sections and blend into the non-highlight areas.
9: Take Guilliman Blue glaze, and drag it down the model so it covers the recesses; this is a glaze and shade at once. I break up excessive pools and cover any overly thin areas. DO NOT WET GLAZE UNTIL YOU GET THE PROPER BLUE. This will result in a model that is too dark. Do a single coat, let it dry. Patience is the key.

Pick out your metal bits in the silver of your choice, nuln oil, and highlight. I use a striking motion to gain a weathered effect.

Finally, remember that the Alpha Legion uses non-standard markings. I show individual tactical squads via backpack coloration, specialists via helmet markings, and rank structure via stripes and shoulder coloration.

For the Emperor!

 I love this saboteur model.