Orks vs Space Wolves first battle of Hour of the Wolf

Here is my army list.: 

1509 points

HQ

 Ragnar

Elites:

Murderfang, pod

5 Wulfen 2 axes, 2 hammer shields, pack leader

Troops: 

8 Wolf Claws, flamer, power fist, wolf guard battler (combi-melta bolt pistol) Pod

9 Grey Hunters 2 melta guns, wolf guard battle leader, (combi-melta, bolt pistol) Pod

9 Grey Hunters 2 Plasma guns, Wolf guard battle leader, (combi-plasma, bolt pistol) Pod

Heavy Support

Fire Raptor gunship  Heavy bolters

 Aric's list
HQ:
Ork warlord
Badrukk and 6-7 flash Gitz
2-3 big groups of boys with claws
A couple squads of Nobs with assorted nasty weapons
Burna Bomma
Some Grots
Large squad of stormboyz
3 killa cans

Turn One Orks set up in all the fortifications we had- Not enough.  Radar station counts as bastion.  Radar array counts as Las cannon turret. I hit the place with a laser burn, and and planet quake bomb.  I wanted the anti-air dead.

 Wolves drop in.  I picked the raptor to come in for sure turn one (per attacker in planetstrike rules) , because we wanted to see what it could do.

 Turn one shooting casualties.

 The frontal assault

 Ork bommer comes in.

 Storm boys multi-assault into wulfen, claws, and Ragnar.

 Casualties after ork turn one.  Ragnar and wulfen cut down storm boyz before they get to attack.

 Turn Three casualties.  The fire raptor decimated the poorly armored orks, anything that assaulted ragnar or the wulfen were quickly cut down.  And Murderfang destroyed 3 killa cans, a couple ork warbosses and nobs, and was a complete beast.  The plama gunners all killed themselves with gets hot rolls.

 At this point we ended it, and both felt the orks need a new dex, we should have placed more fortifications for the orks, and he should have put the flash gitz in the bastion, surrounded by boys, and not have sent the storm boyz vs my hardest close combat units.   The wolves worked really well.

Imperial knight renegade game

My brother and I got an Imperial Knight Renegade game in.  I had icarus autocannons, rapid fire battle cannon and avenger gatling cannon.  Aric had reaper chainsword, stormspear rocket pod, and rapid fire battle cannon.  We played the mission where you try to destroy each other.

After a couple turns of me shooting everything I had at him, and Aric shooting and charging, He got close enough to start destroying me with the chainsword.  I had like 14 hits on him, but on almost every spot, not one area destroyed.

 After a second turn too close to the sword, Aric destroys three sections for the win.  It's a fun game, quick and deadly.  I think the close combat weapon's ability to choose the target area, and not scatter was the key to winning.

Hawkshroud Knight Complete

So the knight is done.  I really enjoyed painting this model, and would probably be adding more details and battle damage if I didn't have two more to do.  The Icarus AA gun has a post for trading out when I get a missile pod.   I didn't want to use a magnet and ruin the little hole on top when the top gun isn't present.   

 Legs done on these two.  Now on to the feet!

House Hawkshroud Imperial Knights WIP

Working on some Imperial Knights.  I love these models.  These have been languishing in my case, half done, for a year or so.  Time to get them done.  I am loving the yellow.  So much so, that I am going to start an Imperial Fist army.  I finally magnetized them at the biceps for easy weapon swaps.  That's the part I was putting off for so long.  Hope you enjoy.

How to fill gaps without Green Stuff and Shadow Spectres WIP

Here is some progress on my Shadow Spectres.  Still needs some work all over.  Especially on the armor, bases and guns. Pretty much all over.

This is a little trick I came up with for glueing resin and plastic.  I originally needed something to hold some larger magnets in place, and have since used it for all types of uses.  From filling gaps, to making resin bonds stronger.  If you have every glued resin, you know that unless you have two surfaces that have a lot of surface area on the join, the bond won't be very strong.  Also, green stuff is great to form and shape into very detailed textures, but isn't super sticky and is not very supportive for the structure you are building.

This technique is super simple and inexpensive.  I wasn't pleased with my Wraith Seer stance, so I broke him apart and started over.  I glue the joint (here the hip joint) and then put some extra super glue in the space I need to fill.  Then I take a small wad of toilet paper and push it into the area with a knife or mould line remover.  Here you can see the size of the piece and the joint with the super glue/toilet paper already in the join.  

And some more toilet paper pushed into the gluey joint.  Sometimes you have to add extra glue to soak all the toilet paper, or cut extra TP from the joint.  Also, be careful if you have a large amount of area to fill, or if you don't pack the TP very tightly.  It has happened to me a few times, where the super glue saturates the TP, dries super quickly and gives off a lot of heat.  It puts out a lot of heat.  So much that I have had it smoke as the super glue dries.   This TP needs a bit more super glue.

 Here I did the same thing with the knee.  The great thing about this filler, is that it sets up like cement, is super strong, holds the two resin parts together and you can cut the excess with a sharp knife.  It paints fine, and is very resilient.  I have put green stuff over it before to get a super smooth surface.  I put a double ply, flat piece of TP between the resin base and the foot of the model.  It made a super strong bond.  I usually pin resin bases, but with the TP/super glue concoction, I don't need to pin it.

 Here's the final pose.  I wasn't completely satisfied, so he's in parts again.

Wraithlord Complete

Finally finished my wraithlord.  I have always loved this model, and love the poseability of it.  I magnetized the guns, so I can switch them out.  I am glad the sword is worthwhile again.

And with his other wraith buddies.  

Thunderwolves Complete

I finished the Thundewolves.  I love these guys.  Tried some edge highlighting on one, Thought it was too light.

I magnetized the marines at the shoulder for changing weapons, but am a bit stymied on how to deal with squad markings for alternate weapons.  I think I will just have to paint up each weapon I want for the squad with the same pack markings.  Otherwise, it will look weird if I have one pack with multiple different right shoulder pad squad markings.  Anyone else have any ideas?  magnetized shoulder pads?

Pack leader.  

 And with his Black Mane company decal.  I don't love decals for shoulder pads, but I was out of cool pads when I assembled these.